Leather tanning and fabric dyeing are two of the most ancient crafts that exhibited a significant progress. Arabs pioneered in these crafts adding much to their development. Our artisans have used leather and fabrics to create marvelous pieces of arts that remain to this day a symbol of our long-existing Arab civilization. The efforts made by our scientists have greatly improved these crafts.
Leather tanning is the process of chemically treating animal skins and hides to produce leather. The idea of tanning is based on the reaction of the collagen fibers of the skin with the tanning agent. The reaction withdraws the water from the skin, making it more durable and resistant to water, bacterial growth, and decaying.
The three main types of hides used in leather manufacture are from cattle, sheep, and pigs. Other animals’ hides, such as crocodiles and snakes, are also used for making luxurious and distinguished products.
Due to the simplicity of the tanning procedures and its basically available materials, leather tanning was one of the first industries established in the Ancient World. The craft underwent several changes and experienced remarkable development. The ancient traditional tanning methods used tanning agents from plant sources. Hides were soaked in a series of vats filled with increasing concentrations of chemical extracts from the leaves and barks of some plants containing tannic acid that acts on the protein constituents of the skins.
In Modern Age, another method became available thanks to a scientific development, which is the chromium salts tanning. Chromium salts are added to the leather and pH is slowly increased. This process makes the leather more resistant to temperature and to bacterial growth. During the tanning process, at least 300 kg of chemicals are used for treating one ton of hides.
Fabric dyeing is the process of adding color to the fabrics. Generally, the fabrics are dropped in a specific solution containing the dye and some particular chemicals. After dyeing, an uncut chemical bond is established between the dye molecules and the fabrics.
Dyeing can be done for the fabric or the yarns used to make them; some fabrics are dyed by printing. The techniques are different and each type of fabric has its specific class of dye that differs in chemical structures, effects, and application methods. Controlling the time and the temperature of the process is the key element of successful dyeing.
In the past, dyeing compounds were of natural sources like animals and plants. Then, chemical artificial dyeing compounds have started to rise; more stable and resistant to water and daily usage.
The Arabs paid major interest towards the improvement of the life-necessary arts and crafts; these crafts include dyeing and tanning. The scientific innovation Arab scientists made has influenced chemistry, pharmacology, metals science, drugs and chemical extractions from plants. Efforts made by famous scientists, such as Jabir Ibn Hayan, Al Razi, and Abu Mansur Bin Ali Harawi, improved the dyeing techniques and the materials used.
Arab influence on these crafts can be seen on their influence in the nomenclature of many dyes and some terms used in the textile manufacture. For example, the indigo color, which is nil in Arabic, and from which comes the Portuguese anil, the Italian aniline, and the English aniline. There is also saffron, which comes from the Arabic zaafaran.
Famous tanneries and dyeing facilities can be seen in the ancient cities of Morocco where traditional leather tanning and fabric dyeing facilities are equipped with numerous vats producing a wide variety of leathers and fabrics with different colors. These facilities are still functioning today, producing some of the finest products in the world.
Arabs pioneered in many crafts; they were world widely known by their accuracy and their innovation. Arab past leaders paid a lot of attention to develop these crafts; a situation that sadly does not seem to persist these days. Crafts are losing their lustrous attraction, and artisans are letting go of their crafts. Saving our traditions and crafts is a mission that we must not neglect; reading and learning about Arab crafts are essential steps to keep our patrimony and transfer it from generation to another.
References
https://books.google.com.eg
https://sites.google.com
www.britannica.com
www.epa.gov
www.fao.org
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